Phou Ngeu Nya Ngeu Origin Story
There are a multitude of spirits in Luang Prabang but perhaps the most prominent are the couple "Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu", Grandfather and Grandmother Ngeu . They are the guardian spirits of the city and they play a central role in Lao New Year ceremonies, the only time that they will be seen. Their story has been passed down by word of mouth through the centuries but was also recorded in the Luang Prabang Chronicles which date from about 1512.
A French postcard showing Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu in 1910
The chronicles describe how in the early days of history there was great disorder the ruling deities sent Khun Bolom down from the heavens to rule and bring order to the city. Prior to his descent to this world, his parents Grandfather and Grandmother Ngeu were sent down to clear the way of ogres and demons. So it was that Khun Bolom, the first king of the Lao people, came down from the heavens and bought peace and prosperity to the kingdom. Legend has it that Grandfather and Grandmother Ngeu originally created the world by performing a dance that caused the land to arise from the waters.
Not long after Khun Bolom's decent from the heavens to rule the Lao people, a liana vine grew up out of a pond called Kuwa, growing high up into the sky. Eventually it grew so high and it's leaves spread so far that it blocked out all sunlight below. Rice could not grow and people went hungry. The king called for somebody to cut down this immense vine but nobody came forward as it was clear that whoever undertook this task would themselves be killed by the falling vine. But then Grandfather and Grandmother Ngeu came forward and volunteered to cut down the vine. But they asked that in return, should they be killed, that they be remembered each year by the Lao people. And so it was, after three months of effort Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu cut through the vine, which fell down killing them. Sunlight returned to King Bolom's lands and with it prosperity returned.
The spirits of Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu are still revered as the founding spirits of the city and reside in two large Po trees at the entrance to Vat Aham as well as in a shrine or Ho Phi which lies within the monastery grounds. The people of Luang Prabang keep their bargain with these spirits by paying their respects every year during Lao New Year celebrations when the guardian spirits come out to play a central role in the Phi Mai ceremonies.
Not long after Khun Bolom's decent from the heavens to rule the Lao people, a liana vine grew up out of a pond called Kuwa, growing high up into the sky. Eventually it grew so high and it's leaves spread so far that it blocked out all sunlight below. Rice could not grow and people went hungry. The king called for somebody to cut down this immense vine but nobody came forward as it was clear that whoever undertook this task would themselves be killed by the falling vine. But then Grandfather and Grandmother Ngeu came forward and volunteered to cut down the vine. But they asked that in return, should they be killed, that they be remembered each year by the Lao people. And so it was, after three months of effort Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu cut through the vine, which fell down killing them. Sunlight returned to King Bolom's lands and with it prosperity returned.
The spirits of Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu are still revered as the founding spirits of the city and reside in two large Po trees at the entrance to Vat Aham as well as in a shrine or Ho Phi which lies within the monastery grounds. The people of Luang Prabang keep their bargain with these spirits by paying their respects every year during Lao New Year celebrations when the guardian spirits come out to play a central role in the Phi Mai ceremonies.
Phuo Ngeu and Nya Ngeu inhabit the two Po trees at Vat Aham. The Ho Phi where their costumes are stored has undergone substantial rebuilding in recent years.
Phou Ngeu Nya Ngeu During Phi Mai
Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu make their annual appearance in the town on the second day of the New Year celebrations. They are portrayed by male mediums who are dressed in costumes depicting these guardian spirits with large red faces and wearing hair like coats made from the fiber of white ramie nettles. The costumes are carefully stored inside the Ho Phi shrine within the grounds of Vat Aham where the mediums prepare for their first outing. Once everything is ready a lively procession surrounding Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu leaves the grounds of Vat Aham and heads down the road. The destination is less than one kilometer away on the banks of the Nam Khan river known as the location where the naga Tao Kham La lives. Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu make offerings to Tao Kham La and then with the naga's permission assist in collecting water from the river. This water is then carried back to Vat Aham by the procession.
Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu pay their respects to the naga Tai Kham La before collecting water for Phi Mai from the Nam Khan
The following day Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu, are joined by their faithful companion Singh Keo Singh Kham ("Diamond and Gold Lion"), who according to legend was caught by Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu in the Himalayan forest. In any case the three spirits join a huge water-soaked procession led by Miss Lao New Year through the town centre to Vat Xieng Thong. There whilst ceremonies are underway inside the temple sim, Phou Ngeu, Nya Ngeu and SIngh Keo Singh Kham entertain the crowd by re-enacting the sacred dance with which they originally created the world. In between quietly relating ancient stories to their guardian medium they dance to the rhythmic drumming and occasionally jump at terrified small children. The whole ritual is played out again the following day but in the reverse direction, with the procession ending with more water drenched dancing at Vat That Luang.
Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu entertain the crowds, and frighten small children, at Vat Xieng Thong
On the night of the third day of new year, Phou Ngeu, Nya Ngeu and Sing Keo Sing Kham come out from their Ho Phi in Vat Aham and walk the short distance through to Vat Visoun to pay their respects to Ong Luang, the main Buddha image there. A ceremony is held to provide blessings to the ancestors spirits which culminates in the trio's familiar dancing inside the sim of Vat Visoun.
The highlight of the New Year comes on the fourth day when the Prabang Buddha image is carried from the Ho Prabang to reside temporarily outside Vat Mai. All the high dignitaries as well as all the common citizens of Luang Prabang assemble at Vat Mai to pour water over the Prabang Buddha. But the very first water poured is by Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu and the water that they use is that which they took from the Nam Khan river with the permission of the naga spirits. In this way the founding spirits of the town together with the naga that live in the rivers pay their respects to the most powerful Buddha image in the land and by this meritous deed bring good fortune to the town.
At Vat Mai Phou Nyeu and Nya Nyeu are the first to conduct the aspersion of the Prabang Buddha
Having paid their respects to the Prabang, the duties of Phou Nyeu, Nya Ngeu and Singh Keo Singh Kham are complete. They return to the Ho Phi in Vat Aham and at 9am the following morning a simple ceremony is held with just a few devotees to lay the spirits to rest for another year. The ancient costumes are very carefully packed in to two large wooden boxes, suspended from the roof, and wait until another year has passed.
Phou Ngeu, Nya Ngeu and Sing Keo Sing Kham sleep for another year in these boxes within the Ho Phi