Phou Ngeu Nya Ngeu During Phi Mai
Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu are the guardian spirits of Luang Prabang whose origin story is explained here. They only appear for the annual Pi Mai celebrations. They are portrayed by male mediums who are dressed in costumes depicting these guardian spirits with large red faces and wearing hair like coats made from the fiber of white ramie nettles. The costumes are carefully stored inside the Ho Phi shrine within the grounds of Vat Aham. The duties of those who act as the mediums of Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu between the spirit world and the material world have been handed down through many generations of a single family.
Each year at an auspicious time on the morning of the second last day of the old year, offering are made to Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu before their costumes are carefully unpacked from storage boxes in the Ho Phi. The following day is Meu Pai, and in the afternoon a lively procession surrounding Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu leaves the grounds of Vat Aham and heads down the road. The destination is less than one kilometre away on the banks of the Nam Khan river known as the location where the naga Tao Kham La lives. Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu make offerings to Tao Kham La and then with the naga's permission assist in collecting water from the river. This water is then carried back to Vat Aham by the procession.
Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu pay their respects to the naga Tai Kham La before collecting water for Phi Mai from the Nam Khan
The following day Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu, are joined by their companion Singh Keo Singh Kham ("Diamond and Gold Lion"), who according to legend was caught by Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu in the Himalayan forests. The three spirits join the huge Miss Lao New Year procession through the town centre to Vat Xieng Thong. There whilst ceremonies are underway inside the temple sim, Phou Ngeu, Nya Ngeu and SIngh Keo Singh Kham entertain the crowd by re-enacting the sacred dance with which they originally created the world. In between quietly relating ancient stories to their guardian medium they dance to the rhythmic drumming and occasionally jump at terrified small children.
The following day is Mue Pimai, the start of the new year, and whole ritual is played out again but in the reverse direction, the procession starting at Vat Xieng Thong and ending with more water drenched dancing at Vat Maha That.
The following day is Mue Pimai, the start of the new year, and whole ritual is played out again but in the reverse direction, the procession starting at Vat Xieng Thong and ending with more water drenched dancing at Vat Maha That.
Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu entertain the crowds, and frighten small children, at Vat Xieng Thong
After dark on the night of Meu Pimai, Phou Ngeu, Nya Ngeu and Singh Keo Singh Kham come out from their Ho Phi in Vat Aham and walk the short distance through to Vat Visoun to pay their respects to Ong Luang, the main Buddha image there. A ceremony is held to provide blessings to the ancestors spirits which culminates in the trio's familiar dancing inside the sim of Vat Visoun.
The ancient costumes of Phou Ngeu Nya Ngeu are blessed at Vat Visoun on the first night of the New Year
One of the highlights of the New Year comes the day after Meu Pimai when the Prabang Buddha image is carried from the Ho Prabang to reside temporarily in front of Vat Mai. All the high dignitaries as well as hundreds of residents of Luang Prabang assemble at Vat Mai to pour water over the Prabang Buddha. But the very first water poured is by Phou Ngeu and Nya Ngeu and the water that they use is that which they took from the Nam Khan river with the permission of the naga spirits. In this way the founding spirits of the town together with the naga that live in the rivers pay their respects to the most powerful Buddha image in the land and by this meritous deed bring good fortune to the town.
At Vat Mai Phou Nyeu and Nya Nyeu are the first to conduct the aspersion of the Prabang Buddha
Having paid their respects to the Prabang Phou Ngeu, Nya Ngeu and Singh Keo Singh Kham perform their traditional dance within the Vat Mai pavilion before departing. Later that afternoon they perform a final ceremony and dance in front of Vat Aham.
The the following morning at around 9am a simple ceremony is held with just a few devotees to lay the spirits to rest for another year. The ancient costumes are very carefully packed in to two large wooden boxes, suspended from the roof, and wait until another year has passed.
The the following morning at around 9am a simple ceremony is held with just a few devotees to lay the spirits to rest for another year. The ancient costumes are very carefully packed in to two large wooden boxes, suspended from the roof, and wait until another year has passed.
Phou Ngeu, Nya Ngeu and Sing Keo Sing Kham costumes are stored safely for another year in these boxes within the Ho Phi
The documentary below by Luang Prabang ງາມແທ້ໂອ້ is well worth watching to learn about Phou Ngeu Nya Ngeu.