Nagas and Phra Lak Phra Lam
Dawn of Meu Pimai, that is New Year's Day, begins as always with the monk's alms round, but on this day senior government officials join the faithful making donations of rice to the monks outside Vat Sene Soukharam. With alms giving complete a great number of the town's women climb Mount Phousi to make merit at That Chomsi and the small shrine behind. Whilst they climb the long winding staircase to the top, the women leave little balls of sticky rice on the walls as offerings to the spirits of the hill. Once at the top offerings of banana leaf van (ຫວ້ານ) and sticky rice are made below the stupa and also at the crevice in the rock behind the stupa which leads to the under-world of the naga. Much fun is also had throwing small sticky rice ball offerings up at the golden That Chomsi in the hope that these offerings will somehow land auspiciously on a high point. In the small chapel behind That Chomsi people pay their respects to the Buddha on this auspicious day.
The Provincial Governor of Luang Prabang giving alms to the monks on New Year's Day
In the evening of the New Years Day the town's guardian naga again come to the fore. After darkness has fallen a procession winds down the stairs from Mount Phousi carrying a long bamboo and paper model of Thao Srisatanak, the great naga that lives below Phousi. Thao Srisatanak descends the mountain and enters the former palace where he circles the naga pond, Nong Nak, three times in search of his wife, the nagi.
Attention then moves to the area in front of the Ho Prabang. Here dancers of the Phralak Phralam Theater perform traditional dances of the Phra Lak Phra Lam , that is the Lao version of the Indian Ramayana. All are welcome to watch the performance in which the brightly dressed characters act out the ancient stories familiar to all Lao whilst the theatre's orchestra plays traditional music.
Attention then moves to the area in front of the Ho Prabang. Here dancers of the Phralak Phralam Theater perform traditional dances of the Phra Lak Phra Lam , that is the Lao version of the Indian Ramayana. All are welcome to watch the performance in which the brightly dressed characters act out the ancient stories familiar to all Lao whilst the theatre's orchestra plays traditional music.
In former times the Phra Lak Phra Lam dances were performed by the Royal Dancers for the King in front of the royal family and invited dignitaries. Traditionally these dancers were recruited from the Tai Lue village of Ban Phanom which is noted for its traditional skills in silver work, weaving, dancing and musicianship. These Tai Leu are said to be descended from the artisans that accompanied Princess Nang Kheaw Thida from Sipsongpanna when she became Chao Fa Ngum's second wife in 1374. Echoes of this important status can still be seen on the morning of Meu Nau when government officials attend Ban Phanom school to watch displays of Tai Leu dancing, weaving and other handicrafts.
After the revolution in 1975 the Ramayana fell into disfavour and was not performed for many years. But from the 1990's this tradition has gradually been re-established as a public performance, assisted by its popularity with tourists and locals alike.
After the revolution in 1975 the Ramayana fell into disfavour and was not performed for many years. But from the 1990's this tradition has gradually been re-established as a public performance, assisted by its popularity with tourists and locals alike.