Markets and Sandcastles
The last day of the old year, Meu Pai, is marked by the opening at dawn of a large street market known as Lo Lad (ໂລະລາດ), extending along Phothislath Road from the road junction by the night market out to That Luang Park. The Lo Lad market together with a funfair also fills That Luang Park. On sale is a huge variety of food, clothes, handicrafts, toys and cheap electronics and the street bustles all day with families and groups of young friends enjoying this shopping bonanza. One traditional purchase that one can still see is caged birds, turtles or other animals that are sold so that the buyer can earn merit by releasing them on this auspicious day.
For others this morning is an important time to make merit and on this day in a unique way. At temples all across the town people will build large sandcastles, Phathat Xai (ພະທາດຊາຍ) which they decorate with white lime, pebbles and long banners known as To Phueng, depicting the eight animals of the Lao zodiac. Traditionally, the sponsor of a stupa built at a temple earns great merit. On this day everybody can earn merit by building their own temporary stupa of sand, as well as having a lot of fun with their family and friends.
On the afternoon of Meu Pai, festivities move to the small island in the Mekong river called Don Xay Mong Khun, the "Sand Island of Happiness". Young people especially cross by boat to the island where under the heat of the afternoon sun they soak each other with water and smother each other with flour. By tradition on this day the girls can taunt the boys who are not allowed to respond. It is a chance for boys and girls to mix and get to know each other outside of the usually conservative restrictions of Lao society. It is a large and happy party helped along sometimes by the music of a Lao rock band in the centre of the island.
Building Phathat Xai on Don Xay Mong Khun brings good luck for the coming year and is great fun
Whilst some are partying other groups get together and have fun building large Phathat Xai the island. Here these sand stupas are built as offerings to the naga spirits of the Mekong River as well as bringing good luck to the builders. As each group complete their stupa they make a wish for the coming new year. By the end of the day the island is covered in that, large and small, together with hundreds of To Phueng banners blowing in the breeze.
In the early afternoon government dignitaries and VIP's come across to the island and a baci ceremony is held inside a small marquee for the VIPs and village elders from Ban Xieng Mene and Chomphet.
Don Xay Mong Khun used to be a natural sandbank which emerged during this season of low water levels. Tradition says that this island was created by the naga so that the Buddha could step across the Mekong River when he flew from his homeland to visit Luang Prabang. In former times members of the royal family would also cross the river on Meu Pai to join the festivities and build Phathat Xai with the people of the town.
In recent years dams on the upper Mekong have changed the natural water flows and now Don Xay Mong Khun is an artificial sand island constructed to ensure the continuation of the Pi Mai traditions.
In recent years dams on the upper Mekong have changed the natural water flows and now Don Xay Mong Khun is an artificial sand island constructed to ensure the continuation of the Pi Mai traditions.